Kakhetian Wine Trail

We’re not in a rush after breakfast as the cars will arrive to pick us up at noon. We leave Tbilisi and head out to Kvemo Alvani, in Kakheti, at the foothills of the Greater Caucasus mountains. The drive will take around 2,5 hours. We will check in a guesthouse and head out, this time still on foot, to visit two small, local wineries. The first one of them, in a small building, decorated with antiques, wine-making tools and pictures of their ancestors, is a relatively new place, established by local winemakers who also make flavoured chacha. We will taste some of their wines and have lunch there. Next we will move to another local winery. Located in an old house, this winery offers both wine and home made liquors that we will taste in a century-old wine basement. Next we will go back to our guesthouse to refresh before a big dinner. We head out to another winery, established by local winemakers who also make flavoured chacha. In a small building, decorated with antiques, wine-making tools and picture of their ancestors, our host will welcome us at traditional, Georgian supra. After the second visit it’s time to head back to our guesthouse. We will have time to refresh before we start our traditional, Georgian supra. Several types of Georgian cheese, coal fried mtsvadi – Georgian shashlik, dried trout, mushrooms, salads and other dishes will be served.

In the late morning it’s high time to meet the horses. Our guides will match them with riders and off we go, we head ride out to explore Kakheti! First we ride north-east, through fields and meadows, with the Alaverdi Monastery behind our backs and a stunning view to the Greater Caucasus right ahead of us. We will stop for lunch in Argokhi, at a fairly large family winery which produces and exports both traditional Georgian and European style wines that we will, of course, try. We can have a walk around the vineyard and fields surrounding the area before we mount up again. The place we are headed to is located on the other side of the mountain. We will cross it through a forest, located in a small, but important Babaneuri Nature Reserve. Then we will ride down to the village and reach a vineyard, winery and hotel complex we will be staying at that night. There’s a nice yard and terrace there with a view to surrounding fields, Caucasus mountains and Alaverdi monastery. A big dinner and nice selection of wine await us in the evening!

After breakfast, we’ll set off for Napareuli, home to another winery as well as a wine museum. We’ll head east, and our guides will choose between two possible routes depending on the weather. We may ride around the village of Pshaveli, where the famous road to Tusheti begins, either through the forested land to the north or across the flatter southern terrain covered with fields and plantations. If the Stori River is running fairly high, we’ll cross the bridge in Pshaveli and head south from there. Further on, the route will lead partly through open fields, and as we approach Napareuli, we’ll join the road traffic for a short stretch in order to cross the bridge over the Lopota River. Soon afterwards we’ll reach our destination. Once there we’ll unsaddle the horses at the winery, settle into our rooms, and then head off to visit the wine and winemaking museum, which has plenty of interesting exhibits. In the evening, we’ll sit down to dinner and empty our hosts’ wine cellar a bit.

Once we’re done with breakfast and packing, we’ll saddle up and leave Babaneuri behind. First, we’ll head towards the outskirts of Kvemo Alvani, and then down to the Alazani River. We’ll follow its bank, lined with fields and lightly wooded in places, crossing streams that feed into the river and, in a few spots, riding straight into the current itself. Much of the route is flat and runs through fields and vineyards, so there’ll be plenty of chances to pick up the pace and enjoy some happy canters. At some point, we’ll leave the river behind and rejoin a public road that will lead us towards Gremi, the former capital of Kakheti, and soon after that we’ll reach Eniseli. Waiting for us there is a small, cosy guesthouse with a well-stocked wine cellar and a lovely view of the Gremi Monastery. The owner is an extraordinary, eccentric man with many talents, who loves wine and has elevated the process of making it to the level of a ritual. He’s also a passionate cook – something we’ll have the pleasure of experiencing for ourselves. On top of that, he specialises in medieval Kakhetian architecture, carves wood, and… breeds shepherd dogs. We’ll stay at his winery and guesthouse for two nights, spending them over delicious dinners and long, late night conversations.

In the morning, there’s no rush – we can enjoy a lazy breakfast and linger a bit longer over coffee. But the ride won’t do itself, so sooner or later we saddle up and head out. Our first destination is the fortress at Gremi – a historic royal citadel and the 16th-century Church of the Archangels. The complex is what remains of the town’s former glory. Gremi was the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti in the 16th and 17th centuries. Founded by Levan of Kakheti, it served as a thriving trading town on the Silk Road and as a royal residence. In 1616, it was razed to the ground by Persian forces and never regained its former splendour. By the mid-17th century, the kings of Kakheti had moved their capital to Telavi. From there, we’ll ride uphill towards a small lake and the slopes above it, which offer beautiful views across the whole region. The routes here are slightly mountainous, rocky and wooded, and very charming. In the late afternoon, we’ll return to the winery for dinner, more good wine, and another cheerful evening together.

From Eniseli, we’ll head south through fields and plantations, following the course of the small Instoba River, which flows into the life-giving Alazani. The terrain is flat, and the dirt roads are perfect for picking up a faster pace – which we’ll obviously make the most of. The area is full of vineyards and wineries, and you can tell that at first glance. We’ll cross the river at a ford, though if the water level is relatively high, there’s also a bridge nearby. On the far side of the current, we’ll begin to draw closer to Telavi, the capital of Kakheti. There, surrounded by vineyards, a charming agritourism place awaits us, with comfortable accommodation, a generously laid table, an evening on the veranda, and yet more interesting wines.

After breakfast, we’ll saddle our horses for the last time. We’ll head towards the southern bank of the river, through the village of Gulgula. From there, the route continues through more wide stretches of land planted with vines. In the afternoon, we’ll reach Alaverdi, right beside the impressive monastery that can be seen from far away – one of the most important and tallest religious buildings in Georgia. We’ll have lunch in a restaurant right next to the monastery, and then climb back into the saddle one last time. From Alaverdi, it’s really not far at all. In the late afternoon, we’ll return to Alvani, where our adventure began – and where it now comes to an end. It’s time to thank our horses for their wonderful work and say goodbye to them – they’ve more than earned a rest out in the pasture. We’ll check into the guesthouse we already know, and in the evening we’ll sit down for our final dinner in Kakheti.

In the morning we will enjoy our last breakfast in Kakheti. But before we drive back to Tbilisi we still have time for a bit of sightseeing in the area: visiting the Alaverdi Monastery and walking around the town of Telavi. In the afternoon we will go to Tbilisi. We will check in the same family hotel, refresh and in the evening we will have our last, farewell dinner together in a restaurant in the city center.

The group leaves Georgia. All riders are taken to the airport in Tbilisi or to a bus stop (Kutaisi airport flights).