Treasures of Southern Albania

After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll head to the stables. There, we’ll be matched with our horses and set off through scenic rural countryside towards the village of Labova e Kryqit (Labova of the Cross). The area is known for its beautiful landscapes, and the village takes its name from a Byzantine-era church. The route is moderately demanding, with plenty of hills and valleys, small streams to cross, and sections perfect for enjoyable trots and canters. Once we reach the village, we’ll check into a local guesthouse, where we’ll be welcomed by friendly hosts. After settling in, we’ll visit the Byzantine church, an important religious site for the region. It’s known for its distinctive architecture and is a great example of the area’s rich heritage. In the evening, we’ll go to a small concert – to listen to Albanian iso-polyphonic singing, which is listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. You’ll be able to join in with the choir and learn local dances, too. It’s a rare chance to experience traditional culture up close and immerse yourself in sounds and rhythms passed down through generations. The performance will be led by an outstanding iso-polyphonic ensemble, we’ll also have time to chat about the songs, the performance, and the roles of the singers. In the evening, we’ll help feed and water the horses. Overnight in the guesthouse, with a delicious dinner of traditional Albanian dishes.

Right after breakfast we saddle the horses and set off. We will spend 4 hours in the saddle that day. First, we plunge into the picturesque valley of the Drino River before climbing a steep hill and entering the Antigonea National Park. We will stop here for a visit. Antigonea was built by King Pyrrhus in 295 BC and named after his first wife, Antigonea (daughter of the Egyptian king, Ptolemy). The ancient ruins of the city are one of the highlights of southern Albania. After a break, we will enjoy an hour of horseback riding and then go for lunch in a village near the stables. In the afternoon we check into our hotel in Gjirokaster. After a short rest, we will go to visit the Cold War-era tunnel, a building that bears witness to a difficult history and illustrates the paranoia of communism. Dinner will take place in a small restaurant in the historic part of the town.

Today our horses rest and we swap saddles for car seats. We’ll head into the Drino Valley, following the Vjosa River until we reach the Benja Thermal Baths near Përmet. The warm pools set along the river are perfect for relaxing on a chilly day. For centuries, these waters have been believed to have healing properties, and in winter — when it’s much less crowded — you can enjoy them in a far more peaceful atmosphere. Continuing on, we’ll come to the Kadiu Bridge, an Ottoman-era monument built in 1760. It offers a fantastic view over the Langarica River and marks the start of the canyon system. During the day, we’ll have the opportunity to explore the canyons, both by walking and by swimming. For lunch, we’ll stop in Përmet — the “City of Roses” — where we’ll be able to try local raki and sweets. Afterwards, we’ll head to a more remote area near the village of Ballaban to visit a special farm. The owners will share their story of leaving city life behind, chasing their dreams, and living in harmony with nature. It will also be a rather unique chance to try… tea. Dinner and overnight stay at the farm.

In the morning we’ll drive to the stables and set off for another day in the saddle. The route takes us through rural scenery — beautiful hills, small valleys, little streams and lakes, cliffs, and even remnants of communist-era structures. Then we’ll ride on towards the medieval village of Karjan. Along the way we’ll reach the Drino River, known locally as the “Tree of Life”. It’s the most important water source in the area and also a key part of old pagan beliefs. On the route, we’ll visit the ruins of the Holy Trinity Castle, a strategic point once used to oversee caravan routes, rebuilt in 1809–1810 by Ali Pasha. During the communist period, the castle ruins were used for military purposes. We’ll stop for a break near the village of Erind. After around 4–5 hours in the saddle, we’ll arrive in Karjan, where we’ll stay at a local farm. There’s time for a walk around the village and, if you fancy it, you can help the hosts with everyday tasks around the house and farm. In the evening, we’ll feed and water our horses, and then sit down to dinner ourselves.

After morning with our host family and packing a picnic lunch, we’ll saddle up and set off. First, we’ll head to the village of Nokova, where we’ll visit medieval churches. Then we’ll ride through the Lunxhër area and stop for a picnic in the village of Dhoksat. The village is known for its distinctive architecture, its use of black stone in construction, and… its beautiful doors. A local expert will join us and tell us more about everyday life, traditions, folklore, clothing, and the region’s ethnography. After lunch, we’ll continue through cultivated fields, orchards, pastures, and wide meadows, taking in some genuinely gorgeous panoramic views. We’ll make one more short stop by Lake Qestorati to admire the scenery, and then return to the stables by a different route. The final riding section in the afternoon will be the most scenic, with a few opportunities for cantering and some dramatic uphill climbs. After we dismount at the stables, we’ll head back to Gjirokastër, where we’ll have a bit of time for a stroll through the historic quarter before dinner. In the evening, you can also head out for a drink at a popular bar.

We’ll spend the day exploring the surrounding mountainous area on horseback. After leaving the stables, we’ll follow dirt roads and bumpy trails towards the Spilea Monastery, which offers a beautiful view over the whole region. At Spilea, built in 1634, we’ll visit the Church of St Nicholas. Its cross-shaped nave is decorated with frescoes by the artist Mihali, painted during the time of Bishop Kalist. The bold, rebellious style of the paintings makes the monastery a truly unusual place. We’ll also discover a small cave church set in a karst formation — a hermitage until the end of the Second World War, later abandoned during the communist period. After a short break at the monastery (with time for a light snack), we’ll begin our descent through a varied landscape. The route takes us through the village of Tranoshishtë and along an ancient trail of the Epirote villages, winding through meadows and pastures pulsing with rural life. Once we reach the stables, we’ll say goodbye to our horses and head for lunch in the village of Asim Zeneli. After that, we’ll return to Gjirokastër for a bit of rest, and in the evening we’ll go out for our last, farewell dinner in a cosy restaurant on the old bazaar.

It’s time to leave Albania. Transfers to Tirana or Saranda are available upon request.